Chocolate Chip Hazelnut Cookies

You can never have enough cookie recipes in your arsenal. I love the all-American Chocolate Chip Cookie, but sometimes they can become boring. This is a fun variation on the classic Chocolate Chip Cookie. The addition of ground hazelnuts gives this chewy cookie a Praline-like character. They are so good, that I bet that you can't eat just one!

Chocolate Chip Hazelnut Cookies
Makes 3 dozen cookies

• 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
• 1 cup light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 cup hazelnut flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 2 cups best quality semisweet chocolate chips

Position oven racks to center of oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper or use Silpats.

Mix flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, and salt together using a whisk.

Using a mixer, cream butter and sugars together until light and fluffy. Scrape sides and bottom of the bowl. Add eggs 1 at a time and beat in thoroughly. Add the vanilla, mix in, and scrape the bowl again.

Add flour mixture and blend on low until just incorporated. Add the chocolate chips and blend until they are well distributed. Allow dough to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

After dough has rested, scoop out 1/4 cup portions, roll into a ball, then divide the ball in half. Place each half on prepared baking pans until you have 12 cookies per pan. Bake for 14 to 15 minutes. For best results, bake only 1 pan at a time. When finished, remove cookies to a cooling rack. Best served warm, but these cookies will keep for a week in a covered container.

Heavenly Challah

Challah is a most wonderful bread! Not only is it used by Jewish People in their weekly Sabbath Ritual, it also makes the world's best French Toast! The rich egg dough is very Brioche-like, but not quite as delicate. It is also easier to make. There are many recipes for Challah. Some use dairy products, some do not. Since Challah is part of the Sabbath Dinner, where typically meat is served, it is traditional to make a Challah that is dairy free. This is in keeping with the Biblical command to not mix meat and milk. Also, it is customary to make 2 loaves of Challah to symbolize the double portion of Manna that the Israelites gathered in the desert prior to the Sabbath, as no work was to be done on the Sabbath. Modern Challah, which bears little resemblance to Manna, is actually an adaptation of a rich, braided, egg-laden, Central European/German Bread that is a relative of Brioche. The Ashkenazic Jews of this area adapted it as their Sabbath loaf because of its fine richness - a far cry from their heavy, rustic, daily loaves.

Challah
Makes 2 large loaves

• 6 1/2 to 7 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon active dry yeast
• 1 1/2 cups warm water
• 4 large eggs, at room temperature
  
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons honey
• scant 1/2 cup neutral flavored oil (such as canola)
• 2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine 2 cups of the flour, the yeast, and the warm water. Mix together until all of the flour is moistened. Cover and let the yeast proof in a warm place for 1 hour. After 1 hour, the flour mixture should be active and bubbly. This is the starter sponge. While the sponge is forming, lightly oil a baking sheet and put aside.

Add all of remaining ingredients to the sponge, except the remaining flour, and begin mixing with the dough hook attachment. Once the mixture begins to come together, begin adding flour until a smooth dough is formed that does not stick to the bowl. You may not need all of the flour, but you will probably need most of it. Once the dough begins to pull away from the bowl, increase the mixer speed until the dough begins to slap against the sides of the bowl. If the dough begins to stick at all, add more flour 1 tablespoon at a time. You want the dough to be a cohesive whole that freely moves around the bowl, slapping loudly. Knead in this manor for 15 minutes. (Your mixer will get hot, so don't worry. Also, you will want to hold on to the mixer during this process so that it does not "walk" off the counter!)

After 15 minutes, cover the dough, and allow to rest in a warm place for at least 2 hours. After 2 hours, place dough an a very lightly floured surface and divide into 8 equal portions. Roll each of the 8 portions into thick "snakes" about 10 inches long. Each loaf will be made of 4 of these "snakes".

To Braid The Challah:
1 2 3 4
Line up 4 of the dough "snakes" in a row like this, llll. Begin braiding in the middle by placing piece 4 over piece 3. Then, place piece 2 over piece 4. Finally place piece 1 UNDER piece 4. Repeat. Continue in this manor until you reach the end. Then, gather all of the ends together and tuck them under the loaf. Flip loaf around, and repeat exactly on the other side until you reach the other end. Again, tuck the gathered ends under the loaf. Transfer braided loaf to prepared baking pan. Braid second loaf, and place on same pan, leaving enough room for the challah to rise. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, leave in a warm place, and allow to rise for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Begin preheating oven to 350 degrees.

Before the loaves are baked , you must egg wash them to give a shiny appearance. You will need:

• 1 egg
  
• 1 teaspoon water
• sesame or poppy seeds, optional

Whisk egg and water together thoroughly. Gently brush loaves with egg wash, being careful to cover all exposed surfaces without allowing egg to pool on baking sheet around loaves. Sprinkle with seed garnish if desired.

Bake in middle of preheated oven for 40 to 45 minutes. When fully baked, Challah will sound hollow when thumped on the bottom, and will be a rich mahogany brown color.

Remove immediately from baking pan and allow to cool completely on a wire cooling rack.
Best enjoyed fresh (of course), but it will keep for 1 week if wrapped tightly.

Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines

Wow! What a time of transition it has been! Sorry that I have been away for a while, but there have been many changes going on at Beyond The Kitchen Wall. The biggest change was moving from the Estate in Glencoe, Illinois to a temporary house in Wilmette, Illinois. It was hard to leave my Kitchen and Garden behind, but that's life... I also managed to squeeze a fantastic honeymoon to Paris in there as well. It was great to return to the City of Lights after many years. Paris is magical and renewed my passions for French Cuisine and the French People.

That being said, it is time to get back to business. And my business is FOOD! I have been working on many recipes in my absence and hope to share them with you in the coming weeks.

We are at the threshold of the Holiday Season, Thanksgiving is this Thursday in the U.S. I wanted to share a recipe that features an ingredient that figures very prominently in the Thanksgiving celebration and during the Holiday Season as a whole, namely Pumpkin. I love pumpkin and am a die hard pumpkin pie fan, but there are other things that you can do with this ingredient. One of my favorite new recipes is for Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines. It is a very French way to use an all-American ingredient.

These "cookies" are incredibly easy to prepare because I use good old canned pumpkin puree. Their texture is pure madeleine, crispy on the outside and cakey-soft on the inside. Also, like true madeleines, this texture is fleeting. They are at their zenith of perfection while still warm from the oven. They begin to decline quickly, and should be consumed the same day that they are prepared. After a day, they become soft and "wet"/sticky. They still taste great, but they lack the hallmark madeleine texture. This really should not be a problem though, because they are so good that they won't be around that long!

Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines
Makes about 2 1/2 dozen

• 4 large eggs, separated
• 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 1 cup canned pumpkin puree
• 1 tablespoon Madagascar vanilla extract
• 3/4 cups cake flour
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, browned

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat begin to melt the butter. Once the butter melts, allow it to gently cook until it begins to turn a light brown color. Immediately turn off heat and allow butter to sit. It will continue to brown as it rests. If your butter gets too dark, start over.

Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a mixer along with half of the sugar. Beat on high speed until sugar melts and yolks become a pale yellow. Add pumpkin puree and vanilla and beat on low until just mixed together.

Place egg whites in a separate mixer bowl and beat on high speed until they reach soft peaks. Add remaining sugar and continue beating until egg whites are stiff and glossy.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, and spices.

Whisk 1/3 of the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture to lighten the batter. Then in 2 batches, gently fold in remaining egg whites using a large rubber spatula. Sprinkle flour mixture gently over the top of the batter and fold until combined. Be sure that there are no pockets of flour at the bottom of the bowl. Finally, add 6 tablespoons of the reserved brown butter, reserving 2 tablespoons to grease the madeleine pan. Cover batter and allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

To bake:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and place oven rack in middle position. Lightly butter a madeleine pan with the reserved brown butter. Be sure that no butter pools in the bottom of the shells as this will distort the final appearance. Place 1 1/2 - 2 tablespoons of batter in each shell mold. I find that a small portion scooper works best for this. Place in hot oven and bake for 14 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and invert madeleines onto a cooling rack. If they stick, just bang a corner of the pan on the rack and they will come right out. Allow to cool to warm and serve immediately. They may be kept for 1 day, uncovered.

Raspberry, Litchi, and Rose Water Sorbet

Have you heard of the enchanting flavor called Ispahan? It is an exotic blend of raspberry, litchi, and rose. This flavor was invented/discovered by Master Pastry Chef, Pierre Herme. If you have not yet tried Ispahan, a whole new flavor world awaits you! Words cannot describe the other-worldliness of this flavor. It is like some sort of Heavenly perfume that dances upon your palate and leaves you longing for more.

I was first introduced to this flavor at the French Pastry School in Chicago, while attending a reception for Chef Herme. From the moment that I tasted it, I was hooked. I ate more Ispahan macaroons that evening than I care to admit. The flavor was so haunting, so soulful, so elegant, so SEXY, that it became imprinted on my psyche! All things Ispahan became my quest. I studied the flavor, researched its name and origin. As it turns out, it is named after the Ispahan Rose. There is also a city in Persia/Iran called Ispahan. This is very fitting for a flavor that transports you to a far-off, mysterious place!

The 19th century poet, Thomas Bailey Aldrich captured the flavorful mystique of Ispahan in his classic verse:

When the Sultan Goes to Ispahan

When the Sultan, Shah-Zaman

Goes to the city Ispahan,

Even before he gets so far

As the place where the clustered palm-trees are,

At the last of the thirty palace-gates

The pet of the harem, Rose-in-Bloom,

Orders a feast in his favorite room--

Glittering square of colored ice,

Sweetened with syrup, tinctured with spice,

Creams, and cordials, and sugared dates,

Syrian apples, Othmanee quinces,

Limes and citrons and apricots,

And wines that are known to Eastern princes.


The simplest way to experience Ispahan is to make the following sorbet recipe. It is very simple, but it lets the pure, clean flavors of the ingredients shine through. This is my recipe. It is my Homage to Pierre Herme. It is a humble tribute to one of my Culinary Heroes.

This sorbet is great on its own, served as an Intermezzo, or as a compliment to Middle Eastern and Persian Desserts. If sorbet can be sexy, this definitely fits the bill!

Raspberry, Litchi, and Rose Water Sorbet
(Sorbet Ispahan)
Makes slightly more than 1 Quart

• 8 ounces fresh raspberries, or frozen raspberry puree
• 8 ounces fresh litchi pulp, or frozen litchi puree
• 12 ounces granulated sugar
• 2 cups water
• 1 tablespoon rose water**
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• pinch of salt

Place fresh fruits or purees, sugar, and 1 cup water in a blender. Blend on high for 1 minute. Pour blended fruit through a fine strainer to remove seeds and large solids. Press on residue in the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Add remaining ingredients to strained fruit, mix thoroughly, cover, and chill overnight. This allows the flavors to marry perfectly. The next day, pour sorbet base into an ice cream freezer and spin for 20 to 30 minutes. Once frozen, transfer to a quart container (there will be extra for you to try!!!). Allow to cure in the freezer 2 to 4 hours. That's it!

** Rose Water can be found at Whole Foods Market, in Middle Eastern stores, or is available online from the Spice House.

Saucisse de Toulouse

Here is my recipe for Toulouse Sausages. These are simple, all-purpose French sausages that can be used in a variety of dishes, but most notably, Cassoulet de Toulouse. Since we are on the verge of Cassoulet season, I thought it fitting to insure that a fresh supply of sausages was on hand. These sausages are lightly flavored with white wine, garlic, nutmeg, coriander, allspice, thyme, and savory. They can be used in any recipe calling for a fresh garlic sausage. They are also great grilled and served with plenty of crusty bread and Moutarde Violette.


Saucisse de Toulouse
Makes about 20 sausages

• 3 pounds of fairly lean pork shoulder, cut into 1 inch pieces and well chilled
  
• 1 pound of pork fatback, cut into 1 inch pieces and well chilled
• 1 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
  
• 1 teaspoon coriander, ground
• 1 teaspoon thyme, dried
• 1/2 teaspoon allspice, ground
• 1/2 teaspoon savory, dried
• 2 garlic cloves, creamed (optional)
  
• 1 cup white wine, I prefer Sauvignon Blanc
• 1 1/2 tablespoons Kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground
• 12 feet of hog casings, rinsed thoroughly**
  

Using a meat grinder, coarsely grind the pork shoulder and fatback together. Use the die with the large holes, or a die specifically for sausage-making. After meat and fat are ground, add all of the remaining ingredients except for the hog casings. Mix thoroughly in a large bowl with your hands until well combined. Cover seasoned sausage mix with plastic and refrigerate overnight. The next day, cook a small patty of sausage mix to check seasoning. If you feel that the sausage needs more salt or any other seasoning, add it now.

Cut the rinsed sausage casings into 3 foot lengths. This will make it easier to work with. Carefully thread a length of casing onto a sausage filler tube. When the end is reached, tie a knot. Carefully begin to stuff the casings, being careful not to over-stuff. If you over-stuff the casings, they will burst. Also, be careful not to have large air bubbles in the casing. The sausage mix should be packed semi-firmly, and look full. This will take some practice, but this really is the fun part. If the casing bursts, or if you notice a hole, stop at that point. Empty the casing enough to tie it off.


Continue this procedure until all of the sausage mix has been stuffed into casings. Remember to leave yourself enough room at the end of a length of casing to tie a knot. The casings are slippery, so this part can become quite comical! Once all of your casings have been tied off, you are ready to twist the casings to form individual sausages. Be very gentle! This is where trouble can quickly set in. Measure off 6 to 8 inches, gently pinch the sausage, and twist a couple of turns. If your casings are too full, this added pressure will cause them to fail. If this happens, never fear, just stuff any left over casings (you will have left overs).

Once individual sausages are formed, they can be used immediately, or carefully wrapped and frozen for three months.

** This large amount of hog casings will give you more than enough to work with. Luckily, hog casings are inexpensive, and it is better to have too much rather than not enough. It is guaranteed that some will break until you become accustomed with the stuffing procedure. Don't worry, just keep trying. After all, it is an art!

Moutarde Violette

This is my new must-have ingredient! It is the famous Moutarde Violette de Brive. It is mustard made with grape must. Made since the Fourteenth Century, this style of mustard can be traced back to ancient times. In fact, our word mustard comes from the Latin word mustum, which means grape must. Famous in the Limousin region of Southwestern France, Moutarde Violette is the perfect condiment for duck, pates, sausages, beef, and really just about any other place that you would want to use mustard! Its flavor is sweet and delicate with a haunting hint of spice. It is available in two styles, whole grain and smooth. Makes a great base for sauces and vinaigrettes. In the United States, it is available online from Zingerman's (whole grain, search for Violet Mustard), La Cuisine (smooth, search for Purple Mustard), and other sources. Sometimes, due to U.S. labeling laws, it is referred to as "Purple Condiment". In France or the rest of Europe, you can order it from Bien Manger (smooth, search for Moutarde Violette).

Ragout Forestiere : Wild Mushroom Ragout

With my new-found love of mycology, I just can't seem to get enough mushrooms in my life. Since we are at the height of Chanterelle Mushroom Season, I developed this recipe to pay homage to one of my favorite fungi. This is an elegant combination of some of nature's greatest treasures, Chanterelle and Lobster Mushrooms, along with our Poached Summer Truffles. This Ragout can be served as its own course, or as a side to meat, poultry, or fish.

Ragout Forestiere
Serves 6 to 8

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 small shallots, minced
• 7 ounces Chanterelle Mushrooms, cleaned**, and cut in half, small mushrooms left whole
  
• 7 ounces Lobster Mushrooms, cleaned**, and cut into large pieces
  
• 2 Summer Truffles, diced large
  
• 1/4 cup dry white wine, I prefer a Sauvignon Blanc
• 1/4 cup truffle poaching liquid
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 3 sprigs fresh French Thyme, leaves only
• 2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a large pan over medium-high heat. When butter just begins to brown, add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add both mushrooms and the truffles, and saute until the mushrooms just begin to brown around the edges. Do NOT shake the pan or stir the mushrooms around too much as this will cool down the pan and cause your mushrooms to stew. When the mushrooms begin to brown, add the wine and reduce until the pan is almost dry. Add the poaching liquid and reduce until the pan is almost dry. Add the cream, thyme, and parsley. Stir to just combine, and season with salt and pepper. Cook together for 3 more minutes, and serve immediately.

** To clean the mushrooms, wipe off with a damp cloth. If the mushrooms are very dirty, quickly run them under running water. Pat dry before cooking.