Inside The Long of Naples Squash

Back in October I introduced you to an heirloom variety of squash called The Long of Naples.

This was the first squash of this type that I had ever seen. It was huge, about 25 pounds! Despite many attempts to find any information about this squash, I came up empty handed. The only info I found was where to buy seeds, or who was attempting to grow them. There was no information about what this beautiful squash tasted like, or how to cook it. So when faced with the unknown, the best thing a Chef can do is dive in and experiment for himself.

The Long of Naples is a very unique squash. It's morphology is like that of the Butternut Squash. The seeds are all at one, slightly bulbous end. The rest of the squash is solid flesh. That is where the similarities end. The color is very rich, like that of the Red Kuri Squash. It's flavor is interesting, somewhat reminiscent of squash and melon, but very delicate. It also has a squashy, melon-like perfume. Despite its size, it is not a particularly hard squash. I found it easier to work with than most hard squashes. Its flesh is also texturally different than most other hard squashes, again it reminded me of melon. It was even pleasant to eat completely raw as it is not a very starchy squash.

As far as cooking, I have been treating the Long of Naples like any other squash, though it is not very starchy, and exudes a lot of liquid. I pureed a piece of it into a soup (recipe follows), I mixed it with other squashes and potatoes in an Autumn Vegetable Hash (recipe to follow soon), and I simply sauteed some in brown butter with sage for a simple side dish. The flavor is delicate, but delicious.

Long of Naples Squash Bisque with Sage Cream, Fried Prosciutto, and White Truffles
Serves 6

• 4 cups Long of Naples Squash, diced small
• 2 medium Spanish onions, chopped
• 1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and diced small
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 to 3 cups chicken stock
• 1/4 cup Vin Santo
• 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 5 sage leaves, fresh
• 1/4 pound Prosciutto di Parma, thinly sliced
• 1 small white truffle

Place 1/2 cup of the cream and sage leaves in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, remove from heat, pour into a clean mixing bowl (metal is best), season with salt and pepper to taste, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.

Saute onions and apple in butter over medium heat in a large sauce pan until soft and translucent. Add squash and 2 cups of chicken stock, the nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, and gently simmer for 1 hour. Stir from time to time. After 1 hour, check to see if squash is soft enough to make a smooth puree. To do this, gently squeeze a piece between your fingers to be sure there are no hard little grainy bits. If not cooked enough, gently simmer, covered, for 30 minutes more.

Using an immersion blender, puree the soup, adding more hot chicken stock as needed to achieve a smooth puree the consistency of heavy cream. Return pot to gentle heat and add the Vin Santo and remaining 1/2 cup of cream. Adjust the seasoning, and gently simmer for 15 minutes.

While soup is simmering, chop prosciutto into large pieces. Gently fry in a small pan until it begins to get crispy. Add a little butter to the pan if needed. Once crispy, drain on paper towels and reserve.

Remove sage infused cream from refrigerator, strain out sage leaves, and whip to soft peaks. Reserve.

To serve soup:

Ladle hot soup into a bowl, top with a dollop of sage cream, sprinkle on fried prosciutto, and finish with a few shavings of white truffle. Serve immediately.

Reverse Chocolate Chip Cookies

Here is a fun variation based on the Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe that I published back in August. Rich, dark cocoa powder is added to the dough and white chocolate chips replace the usual bittersweet chips. The resulting cookie is incredibly decadent. The rich, chocolaty dough is enhanced by the vanilla richness of the white chocolate. These are great cookies to make for kids because the white chocolate is sweeter than expected and helps to tame the intensity of the dark cocoa, which some kids just don't like. It is also fun to make a batch of these cookies when you make a batch of regular chocolate chip cookies. They are like photo negatives of each other. This recipe makes 16 to 18 large cookies.

Reverse Chocolate Chip Cookies

• 1 1/2 sticks of softened unsalted butter
• 1 cup dark brown sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 whole eggs
• 2 teaspoons Madagascar vanilla extract
• 1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup dutch processed cocoa powder, I prefer Valrhona
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 cups best quality white chocolate chips or chunks

Position oven racks to center of oven. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment or use a Silpat.

Mix flour, cocoa, baking powder, and salt together using a whisk.

Using a mixer, cream butter and sugars together until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl to be sure that they are well blended. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix until well blended. Scrape down the sides, add vanilla and mix until well blended.

Scrape the sides again and add the flour/cocoa mixture. Mix on low speed until just about incorporated. Finally, add the white chocolate chips and mix until just incorporated and no more dry flour or cocoa is visible. Allow dough to rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, but overnight is better to develop deeper flavor.

After dough has rested, scoop out scant 1/4 cup portions of dough, form into mounds, and place on prepared pans. Place 6 mounds per sheet. Using the heel of your hand, lightly flatten each mound of dough. If dough sticks to your hand, wet hand slightly.

Bake for 18 to 20 minutes. For best results, bake only 1 pan at a time. When finished, remove cookies from pan using a spatula, and place on a cooling rack. Repeat with remaining pans.

Chestnut and Armagnac Brownies

I developed this brownie recipe one day while my boss was away and I had some time on my hands to play around in the kitchen. The Fall is my favorite time to cook because all of my favorite ingredients are in season. Chestnuts are one of those often overlooked ingredients. Here in the United States we do not use chestnuts enough. We may see them at Thanksgiving in a chestnut stuffing, or roast them over an open fire at Christmas, but that's about it. The rest of the time they are ignored. It's sad because they are delicious and fun to work with. These days, with all of the jarred and canned products available, there is no excuse to not use them in our recipes. All of the hard work is done and we can just enjoy the sweet rewards. My favorite brand of chestnut products comes from the Clement Faugier Company of France. They have been making chestnut products since 1882, and they do it with class and style. Their products can be found at Whole Foods Market, or on-line. Check out their website link in the Useful Links List to the right.

These are sophisticated brownies. The combination of chestnuts, armagnac, and bittersweet chocolate evoke the flavors of the French Southwest. You could almost say that these are brownies for adults. Their texture is delicate and almost silky, with an intense chocolate-armagnac flavor. They are great by themselves, or use them as a base for an upscale ice cream sundae.

Chestnut and Armagnac Brownies
Makes 18 large or 24 small Brownies

• 12 ounces Valrhona Le Noir Gastronomie 61%, chopped
• 4 ounces unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup unsweetened chestnut puree
• 1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1 tablespoon Tahitian vanilla
• 1/4 cup Armagnac
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon fleur de sel

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees, lightly butter a 9 x 13 glass baking pan.

Melt butter and 8 ounces of chocolate together in a small saucepan over extremely low heat. Allow to cool slightly. While chocolate is melting, place chestnut puree and sugar together in the bowl of a standing mixer. Using the paddle attachment, combine on medium speed until completely blended and no little lumps of chestnut puree are visible. Remove bowl from mixer.

Add lightly beaten eggs to the chestnut mixture about a quarter at a time and mix gently with a wooden spoon until completely incorporated. Be careful not to mix in too much air. Add melted butter and chocolate and combine thoroughly with the wooden spoon. Add the vanilla, armagnac, and salt and mix thoroughly. Finally, add the flour and mix until no dry flour is visible. Don't overwork the mixture, we don't want any gluten activation.

Spread the batter into prepared pan and smooth evenly. Melt the remaining 4 ounces of chocolate in a small glass bowl in the microwave. To do this, cook for 30 seconds on half power, stir and repeat. You will probably have to do this 3 to 4 times. If chocolate starts to get too hot, just stir it until all lumps are melted. Chocolate melts at very low temperatures.

Pour melted chocolate evenly over brownie batter. Using a wooden skewer, or a thin knife, swirl the melted chocolate into the batter. Bake in preheated oven on center rack for 25 to 30 minutes. When done, center will be springy, and a wooden skewer will come out fairly clean.

Allow brownies to cool completely in the pan before cutting. Cut into 18 large brownies, or 24 smaller brownies. Enjoy!

BTKW Tip: Save Your Parmigiano Cheese Rinds

I always grate my own Parmigiano Cheese. Nothing can compare with the flavor. The pregrated products, you know, "The Green Can", are garbage. Also, domestic "Parmesan" cheeses are a far cry from the sumptuous complexity of the real thing. Did you know that you can use the entire chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano that you buy? After you have grated the inner portion over all of your favorite pastas, you can also use the rind! Save it, don't throw it away. Store it in a plastic bag in your freezer until you are ready to use it. It packs a powerful flavor punch. Add it to soups or stews. A hearty Minestrone is made even better by the addition of one or two cheese rinds. Just add them, and let them become part of the soup. I must confess that I have been known to fish them out and just eat them! Probably kind of gross from a caloric point of view, but just delicious. The rind has an incredible texture after cooking for a couple of hours. Try it! You can also use the rinds of your other favorite Italian Hard Cheeses, such as Grana Padano. It's a great way to really get your money's worth.

Back To Basics: Chicken Stock

Nothing is more basic to the great cuisines of the world than a good, flavorful chicken stock. It is the foundation upon which other great dishes are built. There is something magical about a pot of simmering stock. For me, the act of stock-making is almost a religious experience. The sights, sounds, and smells transport me back to when I was a child and would watch my mom make her delicious chicken soup. It was humble, but it was full of love and soul. It was comfort in a bowl. The key was the stock, carefully made and lovingly tended to.
Today, there are a multitude of ready-made "stocks" on the market. Some are fairly good, but most are little more than dirty water. In a pinch, they have their uses, but could never compare with a homemade stock. Bouillon cubes are nothing more than salt and really should never be used, for anything!
The following chicken stock recipe is the one that I use for most of my Western recipes. It is a classic French Chicken Stock, or Fond de Volaille. Once obtained, the basic stock can be used for soups, sauces, or wherever extra flavor and richness is needed.

Chicken Stock or Fond de Volaille
Makes 3 Quarts

• 5 pounds chicken backs, necks, wings, or carcasses
• 2 large yellow onions, roughly chopped
• 3 celery ribs, roughly sliced
• 3 carrots, roughly sliced
• small bunch fresh thyme sprigs (7 to 10)
• small bunch parsley stems (12 to 15)
• 1 bay leaf, fresh if possible
• 12 black peppercorns
• 2 whole cloves or 4 whole allspice berries (my mom used allspice)
• water to cover

Place the chicken pieces in a large stock pot. Fill pot with enough cold water to cover the chicken. Place on high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and cook for 10 minutes. Pour chicken and water through a colander. Rinse chicken under running water to remove any clinging scum. Rinse out the pot!

Place chicken back into the pot along with all of the other ingredients. Fill with about 6 quarts of water. Bring back to a boil over high heat. Once pot begins to boil, reduce heat to low and allow to gently simmer for 4 hours. There should barely be any movement in the stock. Adjust heat to maintain the gentlest simmer. This will ensure that the stock will be crystal clear.

Skim off any scum that rises to the surface of the stock. If the stock seems to be evaporating too quickly, add enough water to just barely cover the ingredients.

After 4 hours, remove the stock pot from the heat and strain out the solids. Strain the stock through a fine sieve to remove any little particles. Cool the stock and then refrigerate overnight. The next day, you can remove the fat that has risen and solidified on top of the stock. Do not throw this fat away, you can use it to fry potatoes! Return stock to the stove and reduce it to concentrate the flavors. I recommend reducing it until you are left with about 3 quarts of stock. This will give you optimal flavor and cut your reduction time in any sauces that you make with the stock. Cool the stock and refrigerate.

Stock may now be stored in the refrigerator for 3 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

Poached Figs in Raspberry and Red Wine Sauce

Fresh figs are one of my favorite fruits to cook with. They are sweet and sensuous, just cut one open and look at it! They are very versatile, lending themselves well to both sweet and savory dishes. In the Fall when figs are in season, I try to use them in as many ways as I can. Their season is short, so when I find them in the markets, I like to buy a lot of them. Since they are fairly delicate, I am always looking for ways to keep them without cooking them to death. My favorite way to do this is to lightly poach them in red wine. This allows you to preserve the figs without compromising their shape or flavor.

The following recipe is my variation on a recipe in Paula Wolfert's book "The Cooking of Southwest France". This is a great book and I highly recommend it to all of my readers. The recipe lifts figs to new heights by pairing them with Bordeaux and raspberries. My variation then gently perfumes them with Tahitian vanilla and the essence of orange blossoms. The final product is ethereal and can be used for desserts and savory preparations.

Poached Figs in Raspberry and Red Wine Sauce

• 1 pint fresh raspberries, or 2 cups IQF raspberries, thawed
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 bottle (750 ml.) red Bordeaux wine
• 12 fresh black Mission figs
• Zest of 1 orange
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/2 fresh Tahitian vanilla pod, sliced open length-wise
• 2 teaspoons orange blossom water

• Place the raspberries in the bowl of a food processor and puree for 1 minute. Strain through a sieve to remove the seeds.
• Place puree in a large saucepan along with the lemon juice, sugar, wine, orange zest, and salt.
• Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, or until sauce becomes syrupy.
• Add the figs and gently poach for 5 minutes, turning them often in the hot syrup.
• Turn heat off and allow figs and syrup to cool to room temperature.
• Place figs and syrup into a sealable jar and add vanilla pod and orange blossom water. Seal jar and refrigerate for 3 days. After 3 days the figs are ready for use.