Monday, January 4, 2010

Tabyit (T'beet) - Flavors of Iraqi Jewish Exile

The history of Jews in Iraq can be traced back to the Babylonian Exile in 586 B.C.E.. After Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon (part of modern-day Iraq), destroyed Judah (Judea) and the first Temple in Jerusalem, he decided to put an end to the Jewish state once and for all. He took the most influential citizens into captivity back in Babylon, and left only the poorest citizens behind. The result of this was the growth of a thriving Babylonian Jewish community, even more magnificent than that of ancient Palestine. Babylon would become the focus of Judaism for more than a thousand years*.

Babylonia became the seat of Jewish learning and wisdom. Great academies of Jewish learning were founded by the great Rabbis who would eventually be the first to write down the Mishnah (Jewish Oral Law), and its commentary, the Talmud.

For the most part, the Jewish community did well in this part of the world. Jews became high ranking officials in the government, owned businesses, and enjoyed peaceful relations with the native population. There were times of strife. As is usually the case, people became jealous of the Jews and their abilities to become successful and wealthy. Things became worse after Babylonia was conquered by Sassanid Persians in 226 C.E.*.


The rise of Islam opened a new chapter in the lives of Babylonian Jews. It started well. Jews were taxed along with all other non-Muslims, but for the most part they were treated well and maintained their high positions. As time went on though, persecutions became more frequent. There were good times and bad. It wasn't until the Ottoman Turks gained final control of the area in 1638 that life for the Jews became secure*. Over time however, centralized Turkish control waned, and the situation for the Jews worsened. The Jewish population continued to grow.

This brings us to modern Iraq. After gaining its independence (with Jewish support) in 1932, Iraq started out as a safe place for Jews. The first Iraqi Minister of Finance, Sir Sassoon Eskel, was Jewish. Jews also played important roles in setting up other areas of the fledgling Iraqi Government*. Jewish and Arab Iraqis lived and worked together, and saw themselves as one people.

It wasn't until the mid 1930's and through the 1940's that trouble started. That trouble was fueled by Nazi propaganda (Iraq had ties to the Axis powers) and the ongoing conflict in the Palestinian Mandate. On August 27, 1934 life for the Jews of Iraq, the Jews of ancient Babylon, changed forever. On this day laws were enacted that dismissed Jews from the government, set up quotas in colleges and universities, and made it illegal to teach Jewish history and Hebrew in Jewish schools! It was the beginning of the end. On June 1st and 2nd, 1941 a pogrom broke out in Baghdad and approximately 200 (probably more) Jews were openly murdered, and another 2,000 were injured. The founding of the state of Israel in 1948 caused even more problems for the Jews of Iraq, and by 1951 Israel instituted Operation Ezra and Nehemiah to bring Iraqi Jews to the safety of the nascent Jewish state*.

Things got progressively worse over the years to the point where a population of well over 120,000 Jewish Iraqis has dwindled to a population, at last count, of 8. 8 Jews left in what was once the greatest center of Jewish civilization. And it is all because of HATE!!!


HATE!!!


Hatred and lies. The usual story when it comes to the Jews. Pure, unabashed, organic hate. It's despicable.

Hatred against the Jews is still rampant in Iraq today, as it is in all of the Islamic world. The following video was recorded in Iraq on February 14, 2003. In it a shameful Imam calls for the genocide of the Jewish people. He is ridiculous, and is condemned by his own words. It is almost easy to dismiss this as the insane ravings of a lunatic, but if you close your eyes and listen, it is strikingly reminiscent of Hitler at Nuremberg.



This is obscene. This is a mark of shame against all of humanity.

What shall we do?

How about trying to learn the truth about people, who they are and what they believe? The best way that I know how to do that is with food. When you sit down to eat with someone, when you nourish yourself as they do, you are given the opportunity to glimpse the beauty of their humanity. This is the beauty of the table. This is why fast food is such a bad idea - there is no opportunity to commune with our fellows. The table is communion.

In order to get to know the Iraqi Jewish community better, here is a recipe for one of their best known dishes - Tabyit. It is spiced chicken stuffed with meat and rice, that is cooked with more rice in a spicy tomato sauce. This dish is traditionally served for lunch on the Sabbath. It is one of the great, slow cooked dishes that are hallmarks of Jewish cuisine. As kindling fire and cooking are activities that are not permitted on the Sabbath, this dish is begun on Fridays before sundown. It is then allowed to continue cooking in a very low oven for 14 - 18 hours! nowadays, slow cookers are also used for these types of dishes. The final result is a very tender and flavorful dish. These types of dishes are known as hamin (pronounced Ha'meen). They include dishes such as Eastern European cholent and North African dafina.

The Tabyit is served with other traditional dishes upon returning from the synagogue on Saturday afternoon.

Tabyit
Serves 8
  • 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 large, whole chicken
  • 3 1/2 cups basmati rice
  • 1 pound ground chuck
  • 1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes
  • 3 teaspoons tomato paste
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
  • 2 tablespoons ground cardamom
  • 1 tablespoon ground allspice
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • cayenne pepper to taste
  • 3 cups water
Rinse the chicken thoroughly, and pat dry. Blend the cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice together. Season the chicken inside and out with salt, pepper, and half of the spice blend. Set aside.

To make the filling:

Wash and soak 1 1/2 cups of basmati rice for 30 minutes. After soaking, drain the rice and put it into a large mixing bowl. Add the meat and half of the diced tomatoes with their liquid. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste. I recommend 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Mix everything together. Add half of remaining spice mix and blend thoroughly.

Stuff the filling into the cavity of the chicken. Don't be afraid to pack it tightly. After stuffing, either truss the cavity closed, or tie the legs together in such a way that it somewhat seals the cavity (like a Thanksgiving turkey).

To cook:

Place a large, heavy, non-stick pot or a stove-safe slow cooker insert over medium high heat. Add the olive oil. When hot, add the chicken, breast side down. Allow to brown as best as possible, and then turn it over. Continue in this manner until the chicken is fairly brown all over. Remove the chicken and set aside.

Add onion to hot oil and saute until translucent. Add remaining tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir to dissolve the tomato paste. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. I recommend 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add remaining spice mix. Add 3 cups of water and bring to a boil.

In the mean time, wash and soak the remaining rice for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, drain the rice and add to the pot. Add the chicken back to the pot positioning it so that it sits on its back in the middle of the pot. Bring the pot back to a boil, cover, and immediately place into a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven. Allow to cook slowly for at least 12 hours, but it can be cooked up to 18 hours. Alternately, place insert into slow cooker and cook on low for 18 hours.

To serve:

Carefully remove chicken from the pot. It will fall apart, but try to be gentle. Place on a platter and surround with the rice. A crispy crust should have formed on the bottom of the pot. Place this on top of the rice and be sure that everyone gets a piece as this is the best part. Serve with a simple salad to round out the meal.

1 comment:

Uzma said...

I will surely try it out.It looks delicious.