Poaching Truffles

Summer Truffles (Tuber aestivum)

Black Perigord/Winter Truffle (Tuber melanosporum) season is over, and now it is time for the lesser Summer Truffle (Tuber aestivum). Don't get me wrong, I smile when I see any truffle, but sometimes the summer variety can be a little lackluster. There is nothing in the world like the Perigord Truffle, which is why it is so expensive - $70.00 per ounce, compared to the Summer Truffle at $14.00 per ounce. This difference in price and desirability is due to the fact that the flavor and scent of the Perigord Truffle is far superior to the summer variety. The Perigord Truffle is a thing of legend, the Holy Grail of the Fungus Kingdom. Like all of nature's finest treasures, it has a short season. They are only available fresh from late autumn through the winter, with January being their peak month.

When the supply of Winter/Perigord Truffles dries up, the Summer Truffle appears on the market. Their official season is from June to November. They look like their more famous cousin on the outside, but inside they are usually white and they do not have the same intoxicating fragrance. They can still be used the same way that Perigord Truffles are used, but they are not as memorable. They are almost place holders in a recipe, standing in for the resting Diva.

To help the Summer Truffle attain a place of dignity, it needs a little help. The best way to do this is to poach them in a flavorful mushroom and madeira stock. This not only helps to improve the flavor and texture, but it also helps to preserve the truffles for a considerable time. This technique can also be used to preserve Perigord Truffles during their season.

Here is a recipe for a flavorful truffle poaching stock. To help reinforce the truffle flavor, I like to add Winter/Perigord Truffle juice. This product is expensive, but it is worth the investment. You can obtain truffle juice from D'Artagnan.

Poached Truffles

For the mushroom stock:

• 2 cups mushroom stems
• 1 tablespoon minced shallot
• 1 tablespoon chopped carrot
• 1 tablespoon chopped celery
• 2 cups water
• 1 sprig fresh thyme
• 6 black peppercorns
• 2 tablespoons Madeira

Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, strain stock being sure to press on solids to obtain as much liquid as possible. Return liquid to stove, and reduce stock to 1 cup.

To poach the truffles:

• 1 cup mushroom stock
• 1/4 cup Winter/Perigord Truffle juice
• 2 tablespoons Madeira
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 6 fresh truffles, cleaned

Place stock, juice, Madeira, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer. Add the cleaned truffles and turn heat down to lowest setting. Gently poach the truffles for 20 minutes. Remove the truffles from the poaching liquid and place them in a sterilized, sealing jar. Pour the poaching liquid over the truffles, being sure that they are completely submerged. Allow to cool to room temperature, seal jar, and store in the refrigerator. As long as the truffles are submerged, they can be stored for up to 6 months.

Use the poached truffles in your favorite recipes, and also use the poaching liquid as it is packed with great flavor. Just remember, be sure to save enough liquid to keep your truffles completely submerged.