Back To Basics: Frangipane Cream

Frangipane is that wonderful almond flavored cream that is the base for many fruit tarts. It is also used as a filling in breads, croissants, and the classic Gateau Pithivier. It has a rich bitter almond scent that brings Old World charm to any pastry.

The face of frangipane has changed a bit since Escoffier codified the ancient recipe in his magnum opus, The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery. In Escoffier's time, the rich pastry filling was made using crushed (almond) macaroon crumbs. Today, ground almonds or almond flour are more generally used in the recipe, since most of us don't have access to macaroon crumbs. The modern recipe is very good, but it lacks the sophistication of the original. Also, the original recipe clearly demonstrates the number one rule of the French Kitchen, WASTE NOTHING! If you have broken, not so nice, (or fresh) macaroons that you can't sell anymore, grind them up and turn them into something else!

Below I give two recipes for frangipane cream, a modern recipe and the classic recipe as it appears in Escoffier. Try them both if you feel like comparing them for yourself. If you do not feel like baking your own macaroons just to grind them up, you can probably find a bakery that will sell you old, broken cookies cheaply. Older cookies are easier to grind, anyway.

Creme Frangipane (Modern)

• 4 ounces almond flour*
• 4 ounces granulated sugar
• 1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 4 ounces unsalted butter
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon almond extract

Using a mixer, cream butter and sugar together. Add eggs one at a time, and mix until smooth and fluffy. Add almond flour, flour, and almond extract, and mix until well blended. Refrigerate at least 1 hour before using.

* If you can't find almond flour, grind 4 ounces of blanched almonds with the flour in a food processor until fine, but not pasty.

Creme Frangipane (Escoffier)

• 9 ounces granulated sugar
• 9 ounces all-purpose flour
• 4 large eggs
• 8 large egg yolks
• 6 1/2 cups whole milk
• 1 vanilla pod
• small pinch of salt
• 2 ounces crushed macaroons
• 3 1/2 ounces unsalted butter

Bring milk to a boil and infuse with the vanilla pod. Place sugar, flour, eggs, yolks, and salt in a pan and mix together with a wooden spoon. Pour in the milk slowly, mixing well. Place on the stove and bring to a boil stirring all the time; allow to boil for 2 minutes then pour into a bowl. Add and mix in the butter and macaroons. Cover the surface with butter or plastic to prevent a skin from forming.

As you can see, this is a large recipe, so cut it in half if you want to. I just wanted to present it as it was written by the master. Happy Baking!