Basic Pie Dough

One can never have enough pie dough recipes in their arsenal. This an easy recipe that is great for the beginner. It yields a standard, all-purpose dough that is perfect for all single-crust pies and galettes.

Basic Pie Dough
Yields enough dough for 2 single-crust pies

• 3 cups all-purpose flour
  
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar**
• 4 ounces cold non-hydrogenated shortening, cut into small cubes
  
• 2 ounces cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
• 2/3 cup cold water

Whisk flour, salt, and sugar together in the bowl of a standing mixer. Add the shortening and butter, and using the paddle attachment, mix together on low speed until the ingredients look like coarse corn meal. Be sure that there are no large lumps of shortening or butter that have not been thoroughly blended into the flour. With the mixer on low speed, add the cold water and mix until the dough just starts to come together. If the dough is still too dry, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough begins to stick together.

Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface, and gently knead it a couple of times until it is smooth and uniform. Divide dough in half and flatten into circles. Wrap circles separately in plastic wrap and allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour before using in your recipes.
Dough can be kept in the refrigerator for 3 days, or frozen for up to 2 months.

** if using dough for savory pies or quiche, omit the sugar.

Doce de Ovos: The Sweet Soul of Portugal

In the March 2009 issue of Saveur Magazine there was a short article about an ever-shrinking town in Portugal called Tentugal. This sleepy little place was once an illustrious gastronomic center known for its local pastry specialty, Pasteis de Tentugal. These are little packages of thin, flaky pastry, that is made much like strudel or filo dough, wrapped around a filling of doce de ovos - a simple mix of egg, sugar, and water. It doesn't sound very impressive, but for some reason I was drawn to this simple sweet. I had never heard of Pasteis de Tentugal, or for that matter doce de ovos! Why was something so simple so important? I had to find out. Sadly, the article did not give a recipe, only the basic ingredients.

The history of this pastry, which has been made for 500 years, is inextricably tied to the town of Tentugal. The recipe is one of the many great convent sweets that this part of Portugal is known for. In the old days, the peasantry would bring offerings of eggs to the local monasteries and convents. The Religious would turn these eggs into a multitude of delicious sweets.

According to the article, a 9 pound lump of dough is placed on a clean sheet on the floor and pulled and stretched until you can read a newspaper through it. It can reach up to 300 square feet! The dough is then cut into circles and wrapped around a sweet egg filling.

I knew that the dough would take years of practice to master, but that there was bound to be a recipe for doce de ovos on-line. There were recipes, and they were in Portuguese! Luckily, with a basic knowledge of all Romance languages, I was able to decipher the recipes - despite the comical translations that you get when you click on the "translate this page" link options!

I assembled my ingredients and began to make doce de ovos. It is one of those recipes that you think can't possibly work until something magical happens and you end up with one of the greatest sweets the world has ever known. It is rich and decadent. It is versatile, not only good for a filling, but it can also be thinned out and used as a sauce or as a glaze for cakes and tarts.

To humbly replicate the Pasteis de Tentugal, I decided that I would cheat and wrap my filling in filo dough. It was good, but I'm sure it was a far cry from the true recipe. After doing more research, I discovered another sweet called Charutinhos de Doce de Ovos, which is actually closer to what I made. Who knew!?

Doce de Ovos
Makes about 1 cup

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 whole egg
• 5 egg yolks
• 1 teaspoon vanilla, optional*
• 1 teaspoon orange blossom water, optional*

Place water and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, insert candy thermometer, and continue boiling until sugar reaches 240 degrees. While sugar is cooking, whisk egg and yolks together in a metal or glass bowl.

Once sugar reaches 240 degrees, immediately begin to drizzle hot sugar into egg mixture, a little at a time, whisking constantly. Once all of the sugar has been added to the eggs, scrape eggs and sugar back into the same pot and return to medium-high heat. Return mixture to boil, whisking constantly. Be sure to get into the "corners" of the pot. Continue whisking until mixture begins to thicken and get foamy, about 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, scrape mixture into a clean bowl.

Allow to cool for 5 minutes, and add the vanilla and orange blossom water, if using. Whisk thoroughly to combine. Scrape sides of the bowl, cover with plastic, and refrigerate until completely cooled. Mixture will thicken as it cools. Thin with water if using as a sauce or glaze.

* These ingredients are not traditional, but make the doce de ovos even more delicious!

Amandines au Chocolat a l'Ancienne

These Old-fashioned Chocolate and Almond Cookies are an absolute delight! They are simple yet sophisticated, and incredibly easy to prepare. The entire recipe is made in the food processor, and bakes in only 12 minutes. The cookies are addictively chewy and packed with flavor. They are almost macaroon-like. I guarantee that once you try them, you will be hooked!

This is also a great recipe to use for Passover, as it contains no flour or butter. It is parve by nature and does not force you to have to use matzah meal!

This recipe is a variation of a recipe in the book Paris Sweets by Dorie Greenspan. I have made some slight changes in ingredients (I add salt and vanilla) and cooking time and temperature. I also make my cookies a bit larger.

Amandines au Chocolat a l'Ancienne
Makes about 18 cookies

• 81/2 ounces blanched almonds or almond flour
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 3 tablespoons cocoa powder (I use Valrhona)
• 1/2 leftover, dried vanilla pod or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel
• 3 large egg whites

Position oven racks to center and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silpat.

In the bowl of a food processor, place almonds or almond flour, sugar, cocoa powder, vanilla pod (if using, don't add vanilla extract here), and salt. Turn machine on and process until the almonds are ground and everything is evenly blended. Be sure that there are no large pieces of almond hiding in the mix. With the motor running, add the egg whites (and the vanilla extract if you are using it) all at once. Continue processing until just combined. Be careful not to over process as we do not want to incorporate too much air into the batter. Turn machine off and finish blending with a rubber spatula, being sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer batter to a clean bowl.

Using a 1 1/4 inch portion scooper, scoop 9 cookies, evenly spaced, per prepared baking sheet. Bake cookies in preheated oven for exactly 12 minutes. I recommend baking only one sheet at a time to guarantee consistent results. After 12 minutes, remove cookies from oven and carefully slide parchment paper or silpat with the cookies onto a cool counter top. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, and then carefully remove cookies from the paper or silpat and place on a rack to cool completely. Repeat with second pan. After cookies cool completely, they may be stored in an airtight container for up to 4 days. I doubt that they will be around that long!

BTKW Tips: Using Leftover Vanilla Pods

After you have scraped the seeds from a fresh vanilla pod, don't through it away! There is still a lot of fresh vanilla flavor left in the pod that can be used in your recipes. Fresh vanilla is expensive, it only makes sense to try to use the whole thing.

There a couple of things that I like to do with leftover pods. The first is to make vanilla-scented sugar. To do this, simply place the leftover pods into a container with granulated sugar. Stick the pods down into the sugar, and in 24 hours you will have sugar that is enticingly perfumed with the essence of vanilla. You can use this sugar in your baking, or just in your morning coffee.

Another thing that I like to do is make my own vanilla extract. To do this, simple take a 750 ml. bottle of vodka and drop 6 to 8 leftover vanilla pods into it. Let it sit for 1 month, and you will have your own vanilla extract. Obviously, the more pods you use the stronger the vanilla flavor will be. I also like to do this with kirsch (cherry brandy). This will give you a cherry-vanilla that is great in Alsatian or Central European desserts.

Chestnuts in the Spring

While doing a bit of Spring cleaning in my pantry, I came across a bag of fresh chestnuts that were left over from the Holiday Season. (OK, not so fresh, but still good!) The last thing that I think about as Spring approaches is chestnut anything! Sadly, in the U.S. we have been conditioned to think of chestnuts as purely Christmas-time fare. Once the holidays are over and chestnuts are no longer roasting over an open fire, we don't even consider eating them. It's too bad because chestnuts are not only delicious, but they are also extremely good for you! Nutritionally, they are comparable to brown rice and are extremely low in fat. Chestnuts are also packed with vitamin C (Source). A perfect gift from nature that is ignored for 10 months of the year!

Finding the chestnuts got me thinking about food supplies at this time of the year. Winter is ending and Spring is just beginning (in the Northern Hemisphere, of course). In the past, our ancestors would still be surviving off of their Winter food stores. Chestnuts would surely be in their pantry, as the dried "nut" keeps indefinitely. Meals would include many preparations made from the chestnut, be they roasted, boiled, pureed, turned into breads, or made into desserts. In parts of Europe and Asia, the chestnut was the starch of choice before the introduction of the potato, or in areas where cereal grains would not grow (Ibid).

So why don't we eat them? Why have they become a ceremonial object, like cranberry sauce? I can only think that it is because people don't know what to do with them. Also, I believe that people fear them because "nuts" are viewed as fattening ingredients used in desserts or as quick snacks. As stated above, chestnuts are not fattening, and they are anything but "quick"! They need some work to become palatable. So that leaves just not knowing what to do with them. Not knowing is not an excuse to miss out on something this good, so below I give a procedure for processing fresh (or not so fresh) chestnuts and a recipe that is fitting for this transitional time between Winter and Spring.


To Peel Fresh Chestnuts

The following is the procedure that I use to peel fresh chestnuts. There are other ways to do it, but this method works well. Also, keep in mind that older chestnuts are easier to peel as the "nut" has begun to shrink away from the skin due to moisture loss.

• Soak chestnuts in warm water for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 500 degrees.
• Drain the chestnuts and pat dry.
• Using a small knife, make a shallow slit in the rounded side of the chestnut. Do not cut too deeply as you do not want to gouge the "nut" itself.
• Place chestnuts on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes.
• Remove from the oven, place in a bowl, cover with a moist towel, and allow to steam/cool for 5 minutes.
• Remove chestnuts from their shells. Be sure to remove all of the brown inner skin, it is tannic and bitter.
• Chestnuts are now ready for further cooking.

At this point, I like to gently simmer my chestnuts (in a covered pot), in flavorful stock or water for savory preparations, or in a sugar syrup for sweet preparations for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Older, drier chestnuts will naturally take longer to cook. They are done when tender. Keep checking them and be careful not to overcook them unless you plan on pureeing them, as they will fall apart. At this point you can use them, or freeze them using the IQF procedure.

Sauteed Asparagus with Veal Glazed Chestnuts

Serves 4 to 6

• 2 bunches thin, young, green asparagus spears
• 1 cup cooked chestnuts**, halved
• 1/4 cup chicken or brown veal stock
• 3 tablespoons veal glaze (glace de veau)
• 4 tablespoons finest quality unsalted butter
• fleur de sel and pepper to taste

Wash and drain asparagus spears. Cut bunches in half. Retain top half, discard bottom half or save it for an asparagus soup. Set tops aside.

Place chestnut halves, stock, and veal glaze in a small pot. Cook over medium heat until liquid evaporates and chestnuts begin to look glazed. Season lightly with fleur de sel and pepper. Keep warm.

Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the butter to the pan, be careful not to burn. Once melted and hot, add the asparagus tops. Season with fleur de sel and pepper. Saute the asparagus until it begins to brown lightly.

To finish, rewarm the chestnuts over low heat. Add the final tablespoon of butter and mix gently until butter is incorporated. Arrange asparagus on a serving dish and spoon chestnuts and glaze over. Serve immediately while hot.

** If you don't have any fresh chestnuts left from the holidays, you can still make this recipe using store-bought, vacuum-packed, whole chestnuts. They are just as good, but a little pricey!

BTKW Tip: Perfect Hard-Boiled Eggs

This is the method that I use to make hard-boiled eggs. They come out perfectly every time.

Place 12 eggs in a medium sized pot. Add enough cold water to the pot to cover the eggs by 2 inches. Place pot over high heat, and bring to a boil. As soon as the water comes to a good, rolling boil, set a timer for exactly 6 minutes. After 6 minutes, immediately place pot into the sink and run under cold water. When eggs have cooled, they are ready to peel and eat.

Note: Older eggs are best suited for hard-boiling because they are easier to peel. In the United States, most eggs come with an "expiration" date. Use eggs that are closest to this date and you will have no problem with them sticking to their shells.

Coulibiac

The French Classic known as Coulibiac is actually not French at all! It is based on the traditional Russian dish known as Kulebyaka. It was the great French Chef Escoffier who brought the Kulebyaka into Classical French Cuisine. In his magnum opus "The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery" the Master gives us a few recipes for this classic Russian delicacy. A coulibiac is usually salmon, grain (usually rice), mushrooms, hard-boiled eggs, and sauce, all wrapped in brioche dough or puff pastry. Escoffier was a great lover of this dish and took great pains to insure that his recipe did justice to the Russian original, a dish that once graced the tables of the Tsars.

One day, while feeling adventurous, I decided that I wanted to try my hand at making this hallmark of Classical French Gastronomy. It seemed a daunting task, but I felt that my skills were up for it. I would not be able to recreate the recipe exactly, as one of the key ingredients "vesiga", was not available. Vesiga is the dried spinal cord of a sturgeon! I'm not even sure such a thing is available these days? The rest of the recipe seemed pretty straight forward. I would just find a fishy substitution for the vesiga. Here is my recipe for this classic dish. It is a lot of work, but the results are absolutely delicious. It is the perfect "WOW" dish to serve for a group of your very closest friends.

Coulibiac de Saumon

Serves 6

• 1 pound wild salmon fillet, skin and bones removed. I prefer sockeye salmon. Also avoid the tail piece as you do not want the fillet to taper off.
• 14 ounces all-butter puff pastry. Frozen works well for this, or make your own!
• 2 tablespoons flour, plus more for dusting
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup basmati rice
• 1 1/2 cups chicken stock or water
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 8 ounces button mushrooms, chopped finely
• 1 ounce dried chanterelle mushrooms, soaked in 1 cup hot water for 20 minutes. Remove from water, squeeze out excess liquid, chop finely. Reserve soaking liquid.
• 1 large leek, sliced thinly
• 5 ounces fresh baby spinach
• 1/2 teaspoon dried french thyme
• 1/2 cup flat-leafed parsley, chopped
• 4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
• 1 tin of water-packed sardines, roughly mashed
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 whole egg
• 1 tablespoon water
• 1/4 cup bread crumbs
• salt and pepper
• olive oil for sauteing

Procedure:

Salmon: Place large saute pan over high heat. Cut salmon fillet in half lengthwise, season with salt and pepper. Cover bottom of pan with olive oil. Sear salmon on top side only until brown and crispy. Remove from pan and cool completely. Place aside.

Rice: Place rice in a pot with 1 1/2 cups liquid and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1/4 cup heavy cream. Let cool completely. Place aside.

Mushroom Duxelles: Place large saute pan over high heat. Add olive oil to cover bottom. Add chopped button mushrooms, chopped chanterelle mushrooms, and sliced leeks. Saute until very well cooked and somewhat dry, about 20 minutes. Add dried thyme, parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Cook another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add the baby spinach. Mix together and allow the heat from the mushrooms to wilt the spinach. Set aside and cool completely.

Mushroom Sauce: Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons of flour and cook together for about five minutes, stirring constantly. To this roux, add the reserved mushroom soaking liquid. Stir, bring to a boil, and season with salt and pepper. The sauce will be very thick. Cook for about five minutes. After five minutes, remove from the heat and add the egg yolks and remaining 1/4 cup of heavy cream. Whisk thoroughly. Return to a gentle heat and cook an additional five minutes, whisking constantly. Set aside and cool completely.

Puff Pastry: Flour a work surface and roll out puff pastry to a 10 x 16 inch rectangle. Cut the rectangle into two pieces at the 7 inch mark along the 16 inch run. In other words, you should have two pieces of pastry, one measuring 7 x 10 inches, and the other measuring 9 x 10 inches. Keep chilled until ready for use.

Assembly:

Place the smaller piece of puff pastry on a piece of parchment paper the size of a baking sheet. Begin building layers in the center of the pastry starting with the rice. Make a layer of rice, leaving at least a 1 inch margin all the way around. Next, make a layer of mushroom sauce. Next, a layer of hard-boiled egg. Next, a layer of sardine. Next, a layer of mushroom duxelles. Place the salmon fillets on top of the mushroom, placing salmon the long way end to end. Now repeat your layers in reverse, being sure that you end with rice.

Make an egg wash with the whole egg and water. Egg wash the pastry around the 1 inch margin. Place the larger piece of pastry over the top, being very careful not to tear it. Gently pat it snugly all the way around being careful not to trap any air inside. Seal top pastry to bottom pastry. Then, carefully trim off any excess pastry leaving only about 1 inch all the way around. Carefully fold the excess pastry under the coulibiac. The final result should be somewhat football shaped, see picture above. Using a small round cutter, cut out a vent hole in the top.

Cover the entire coulibiac with egg wash and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. At this point, it can be held for up to 2 days.

While coulibiac is chilling, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake coulibiac on a baking sheet in the middle of the oven for about 35 to 40 minutes. You just want the pastry to turn a rich golden brown. Remove from the oven and let rest 15 minutes before slicing and serving. Use a serated knife in a sawing motion to slice. Serve immediately.