Published In The Jerusalem Post

Check out my first Food Column published in The Jerusalem Post!

Tabyit - Flavors of Iraqi Jewish Exile

Figs!

Last year if you recall, I had the privilege of planting and harvesting an incredible Chef's Garden. Unfortunately, with the changes that have happened in my life - the sale of the mansion, and the subsequent loss of my job - this year's Chef's Garden is basically non-existent.

That has not stopped me completely, though. On my balcony I have a very small, but beautiful garden. It is very basic, this year we just grew a few culinary herbs and some flowers. There is one plant however, that is a welcome addition to the bunch. My very first Fig Tree!

It is small and adorable. I am so excited to have it. Just a few days ago, I noticed that it was actually starting to make figs! It's like having a little piece of the Mediterranean right on my balcony.

Nothing says sunny Mediterranean like the following fig recipe! It can be used as an hors d'oevre or added to your favorite salad.



Grilled Figs with Goat Cheese and Lavender Honey

• 12 fresh figs (whatever is in season)
• extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt
• cracked pepper
• 1/4 cup fresh goat cheese, crumbled
  
• 1/4 cup good quality honey
• 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon lavender flowers

Place the honey in a small pot and gently heat until just bubbly. Add lavender flowers, stir, and allow to infuse for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the fresh figs in half lengthwise. Brush each fig with extra virgin olive oil, and season with sea salt and pepper. Place fig halves on a hot grill, cut side up. Top each with some of the crumbled goat cheese.

Close grill and allow to cook for 3 - 5 minutes, or until cheese is hot and melting. Remove from grill, arrange on a platter or atop your favorite salad. Drizzle with the lavender infused honey.
Serve while warm.

Spanish Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse : Mousse de Chocolate con Aceite de Oliva

As I continue to explore the grand culinary traditions of the Mediterranean World, I am constantly amazed at the genius and versatility of its ingredients.

One ingredient that they all have in common, and perhaps the most versatile is olive oil. Not only is it used in every aspect of the savory kitchen, it is also heavily used in desserts and pastries.

In recent years, cakes and pastries that list extra virgin olive oil among their ingredients have slowly made their way onto the food scene in the United States. I have been making such desserts and sharing the recipes for years, especially among my friends who keep Kosher kitchens. Since they are not allowed to mix meat and dairy together at the same meal, it is difficult for them to find dessert recipes, especially cakes and cookies, that do not force them to use trans-fat laden margarine. By using recipes that call for olive oil, they can have their cake and eat it too, without the guilt of knowing that they are damaging their children's arteries!

I am always on the look out for new and exciting desserts that use olive oil.

I have recently come upon a Spanish Chocolate Mousse recipe that has absolutely blown my mind! It's hard to believe that something as fantastic as Chocolate Mousse can be improved upon, but the simple addition of extra virgin olive oil will lift your mousse to new heights!

The fruitiness of olive oil marries perfectly with and enhances the flavor of chocolate. The olive oil also gives the mousse a "light" velvety texture that melts instantly the moment it hits the tongue. This is the best Chocolate Mousse that I have ever tasted, and remember, I am a Die-Hard Francophile!

If you are feeling truly adventurous, garnish the mousse with flaky sea salt.

Mousse de Chocolate con Aceite de Oliva
Serves 10

• 7 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate
• 1/2 cup mild extra virgin olive oil, preferably Arbequina
• 4 large eggs, separated
• 3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
• 1/3 cup brewed espresso, or water
• 2 tablespoons rum, brandy, orange liqueur, vanilla, or rose water* (optional)

In a small saucepan, melt chocolate over very low heat. Remove from heat, let cool to room temperature, add the olive oil, and mix well.

In a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk until foamy. Add espresso or water, and flavoring. Whisk until well blended. Add the chocolate mixture and whisk together until well blended. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula.

Using a standing mixer, or a hand-held mixer, beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Scoop about one-third of the egg whites and fold into the chocolate mixture with a rubber spatula. Repeat with half of the remaining egg whites. Finally, fold in remaining egg whites until no white streaks remain visible.

Transfer mousse to a 10 inch spring form pan, bowl, or individual serving glasses. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight. Alternately, mousse can be frozen for at least 3 hours.

Remove the mousse from the refrigerator or freezer, serve as desired. Mousse in the cake pan can actually be cut into wedges and served like a cake. If freezing the mousse, allow to soften sightly before serving. This mousse can also be scooped into quenelles for service.
For added elegance, garnish with a flaky sea salt such as Maldon Salt.
Serve with seasonal fresh fruit.

* If using rose water, do NOT use espresso. Use plain water.

Stay Tuned For Return of Beyond The Kitchen Wall!!!

Dear Readers,

Sorry that I have been away for a while. After being laid off from my last job, I needed to take a break from writing; I just wasn't feeling it!

I am newly employed as an Instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago, and will be back sharing delicious recipes with you.

Stay tuned, it's time to get back to basics and try new, fun flavors!

Be Well,

Chef Dennis

Potage Esau - Red Lentil Soup

I like to refer to the time period between January 15th and March 1st as "Deepest, Darkest Winter". The holidays are over, and what was desirable around the end of December - snow, winter chill, etc... - is no longer so appealing. Winter has taken a firm hold and the temperatures have plunged. The snow isn't fluffy and charming, it's heavy and dirty. Days are short, though slowly lengthening. Unless you are into winter sports, all you want to do is stay inside where it is warm.

That is why this is the best time of year to pull out your favorite, hearty soup recipes. One of my all-time favorites is a Mediterranean spiced red lentil soup. Known as Potage Esau after the biblical character who sold his birthright to his brother, Jacob, for just one bowl of this delicious soup/potage/stew. There are many recipes for this soup that use different types of lentils, but the bible describes the soup/stew as red. So red lentils it is! Remember that tomatoes were not known to the ancients of the Near East, but red lentils were. This is a great vegetarian soup!

Potage Esau
Serves 6 to 8

• Olive oil for sauteing
• 1 medium Spanish onion, chopped
• 3 medium carrots, diced small
  
• 3 celery stalks, diced small
• 1 fennel bulb, diced small
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 3 cups red lentils
• 6 to 8 cups water
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
• 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Heat a large pot over medium-high heat and lightly coat the bottom with olive oil. Add the onion, carrots, celery, fennel, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to lightly brown. Do this in batches if needed. Add 2 cups of the lentils, 6 cups of water, the coriander, cumin, and lemon juice. Cook until the lentils begin to fall apart, about 15 to 20 minutes. After 15 to 20 minutes, check for seasoning, and add the remaining lentils. Cook for an additional 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, add the chopped cilantro and parsley. Add more water if the soup is too thick, and adjust seasoning. Simmer for an additional 5 minutes and serve.

Spanish Almond Cake for The Festival of Trees (Tu B'Shvat)

This year, the Jewish Tree Festival, Tu B'Shvat, falls on January 30th. Think of it as the forerunner of Arbor Day. It is a minor holiday that is celebrated by the planting of trees, especially in Israel.

Throughout the world, Jews eat foods on Tu B'Shvat that are characteristic of the land of Israel, especially the seven types of fruits and grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8. However, any fruit or nut that comes from a tree can be enjoyed as part of the holiday celebration. It's a great way to remind ourselves that Springtime, with its promise of new life, is not far off.

Here is a recipe for a very traditional Spanish (Galician) almond cake. It would fit perfectly into any holiday celebration. Also note that it contains mostly tree related ingredients: olive oil, lemon, cinnamon, and almonds. It also contains wheat which is one of the grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8.

Spanish Almond Cake (Galicia)
Serves 8

• olive oil and flour for pan
• 4 large eggs
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  
• 3 cups almond flour
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• confectioners' sugar for dusting

Center oven rack and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Oil and flour a 9 inch spring-form cake pan.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, lemon zest, cinnamon, granulated sugar, and salt. Whisk together until foamy. Add the almond flour and mix well. Add the flour and mix until just incorporated. Be sure that the batter is smooth and that there is no dry flour remaining towards the bottom.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. After 10 minutes, carefully run a knife around the edge of the cake to be sure that it is not sticking to the pan. Remove the collar and allow the cake to cool to room temperature. When cool, invert the cake and remove the pan bottom.

Place cake upright on a serving plate. Dust the top with confectioners' sugar.

Tabyit (T'beet) - Flavors of Iraqi Jewish Exile

The history of Jews in Iraq can be traced back to the Babylonian Exile in 586 B.C.E.. After Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon (part of modern-day Iraq), destroyed Judah (Judea) and the first Temple in Jerusalem, he decided to put an end to the Jewish state once and for all. He took the most influential citizens into captivity back in Babylon, and left only the poorest citizens behind. The result of this was the growth of a thriving Babylonian Jewish community, even more magnificent than that of ancient Palestine. Babylon would become the focus of Judaism for more than a thousand years*.

Babylonia became the seat of Jewish learning and wisdom. Great academies of Jewish learning were founded by the great Rabbis who would eventually be the first to write down the Mishnah (Jewish Oral Law), and its commentary, the Talmud.

For the most part, the Jewish community did well in this part of the world. Jews became high ranking officials in the government, owned businesses, and enjoyed peaceful relations with the native population. There were times of strife. As is usually the case, people became jealous of the Jews and their abilities to become successful and wealthy. Things became worse after Babylonia was conquered by Sassanid Persians in 226 C.E.*.


The rise of Islam opened a new chapter in the lives of Babylonian Jews. It started well. Jews were taxed along with all other non-Muslims, but for the most part they were treated well and maintained their high positions. As time went on though, persecutions became more frequent. There were good times and bad. It wasn't until the Ottoman Turks gained final control of the area in 1638 that life for the Jews became secure*. Over time however, centralized Turkish control waned, and the situation for the Jews worsened. The Jewish population continued to grow.

This brings us to modern Iraq. After gaining its independence (with Jewish support) in 1932, Iraq started out as a safe place for Jews. The first Iraqi Minister of Finance, Sir Sassoon Eskel, was Jewish. Jews also played important roles in setting up other areas of the fledgling Iraqi Government*. Jewish and Arab Iraqis lived and worked together, and saw themselves as one people.

It wasn't until the mid 1930's and through the 1940's that trouble started. That trouble was fueled by Nazi propaganda (Iraq had ties to the Axis powers) and the ongoing conflict in the Palestinian Mandate. On August 27, 1934 life for the Jews of Iraq, the Jews of ancient Babylon, changed forever. On this day laws were enacted that dismissed Jews from the government, set up quotas in colleges and universities, and made it illegal to teach Jewish history and Hebrew in Jewish schools! It was the beginning of the end. On June 1st and 2nd, 1941 a pogrom broke out in Baghdad and approximately 200 (probably more) Jews were openly murdered, and another 2,000 were injured. The founding of the state of Israel in 1948 caused even more problems for the Jews of Iraq, and by 1951 Israel instituted Operation Ezra and Nehemiah to bring Iraqi Jews to the safety of the nascent Jewish state*.

Things got progressively worse over the years to the point where a population of well over 120,000 Jewish Iraqis has dwindled to a population, at last count, of 8. 8 Jews left in what was once the greatest center of Jewish civilization. And it is all because of HATE!!!


HATE!!!


Hatred and lies. The usual story when it comes to the Jews. Pure, unabashed, organic hate. It's despicable.

Hatred against the Jews is still rampant in Iraq today, as it is in all of the Islamic world. The following video was recorded in Iraq on February 14, 2003. In it a shameful Imam calls for the genocide of the Jewish people. He is ridiculous, and is condemned by his own words. It is almost easy to dismiss this as the insane ravings of a lunatic, but if you close your eyes and listen, it is strikingly reminiscent of Hitler at Nuremberg.



This is obscene. This is a mark of shame against all of humanity.

What shall we do?

How about trying to learn the truth about people, who they are and what they believe? The best way that I know how to do that is with food. When you sit down to eat with someone, when you nourish yourself as they do, you are given the opportunity to glimpse the beauty of their humanity. This is the beauty of the table. This is why fast food is such a bad idea - there is no opportunity to commune with our fellows. The table is communion.

In order to get to know the Iraqi Jewish community better, here is a recipe for one of their best known dishes - Tabyit. It is spiced chicken stuffed with meat and rice, that is cooked with more rice in a spicy tomato sauce. This dish is traditionally served for lunch on the Sabbath. It is one of the great, slow cooked dishes that are hallmarks of Jewish cuisine. As kindling fire and cooking are activities that are not permitted on the Sabbath, this dish is begun on Fridays before sundown. It is then allowed to continue cooking in a very low oven for 14 - 18 hours! nowadays, slow cookers are also used for these types of dishes. The final result is a very tender and flavorful dish. These types of dishes are known as hamin (pronounced Ha'meen). They include dishes such as Eastern European cholent and North African dafina.

The Tabyit is served with other traditional dishes upon returning from the synagogue on Saturday afternoon.

Tabyit
Serves 8

• 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 large, whole chicken
• 3 1/2 cups basmati rice
• 1 pound ground chuck
• 1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes
• 3 teaspoons tomato paste
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons ground cardamom
• 1 tablespoon ground allspice
• salt and pepper to taste
• cayenne pepper to taste
• 3 cups water
  

Rinse the chicken thoroughly, and pat dry. Blend the cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice together. Season the chicken inside and out with salt, pepper, and half of the spice blend. Set aside.

To make the filling:

Wash and soak 1 1/2 cups of basmati rice for 30 minutes. After soaking, drain the rice and put it into a large mixing bowl. Add the meat and half of the diced tomatoes with their liquid. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste. I recommend 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Mix everything together. Add half of remaining spice mix and blend thoroughly.

Stuff the filling into the cavity of the chicken. Don't be afraid to pack it tightly. After stuffing, either truss the cavity closed, or tie the legs together in such a way that it somewhat seals the cavity (like a Thanksgiving turkey).

To cook:

Place a large, heavy, non-stick pot or a stove-safe slow cooker insert over medium high heat. Add the olive oil. When hot, add the chicken, breast side down. Allow to brown as best as possible, and then turn it over. Continue in this manner until the chicken is fairly brown all over. Remove the chicken and set aside.

Add onion to hot oil and saute until translucent. Add remaining tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir to dissolve the tomato paste. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. I recommend 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add remaining spice mix. Add 3 cups of water and bring to a boil.

In the mean time, wash and soak the remaining rice for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, drain the rice and add to the pot. Add the chicken back to the pot positioning it so that it sits on its back in the middle of the pot. Bring the pot back to a boil, cover, and immediately place into a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven. Allow to cook slowly for at least 12 hours, but it can be cooked up to 18 hours. Alternately, place insert into slow cooker and cook on low for 18 hours.

To serve:

Carefully remove chicken from the pot. It will fall apart, but try to be gentle. Place on a platter and surround with the rice. A crispy crust should have formed on the bottom of the pot. Place this on top of the rice and be sure that everyone gets a piece as this is the best part. Serve with a simple salad to round out the meal.